{"id":6493,"date":"2017-08-06T10:35:31","date_gmt":"2017-08-06T16:35:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cooking.pfeist.net\/?p=6493"},"modified":"2017-08-06T10:49:46","modified_gmt":"2017-08-06T16:49:46","slug":"250-cookbooks-beard-on-pasta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/cooking.pfeist.net\/?p=6493","title":{"rendered":"250 Cookbooks: Beard on Pasta"},"content":{"rendered":"

Cookbook #211:<\/strong> Beard on Pasta<\/em>, James Beard, Alfred A. Knopf, NY, 1983.<\/p>\n

\"Beard<\/p>\n

James Beard<\/a> was a well-known and well-loved twentieth century American cook, author, teacher, and television personality. I covered his book Beard on Bread <\/a>in my fifth 250 Cookbooks post, and he wrote many articles in my Encyclopedia of Cookery volumes. I enjoy his writing, and his wisdom. So I am happy to now cover Beard on Pasta.<\/em><\/p>\n

“This is a book of good times to have with pasta.” So begins the introduction of Beard on Pasta<\/em>. He continues: “I never get tired of pasta, any more than I get tired of bread.” I am the same way!<\/p>\n

Noodles have a long history. Before refrigeration, wheat was mixed with water to make a paste that was dried to become “noodles”, and these could be stored at room temperature without spoiling. According to Beard, in early Bulgaria lumps of dried dough were carried by horsemen in their saddlebags and grated into pots of boiling milk at the end of the day’s ride. Records show that noodles were being sold in Greece as early as the fifth century. “Pasta in Italy probably started in the south, as part of that whole Mediterranean culture. We know that Romans grew wheat in Sicily.”<\/p>\n

We tend to think of noodles as Italian, but pasta is a part of nearly every country’s cuisine. Noodles are made from wheat flour, rice flour, and mung bean, yam, potato, and cassava starches. Noodles are made in all shapes and sizes. Some noodles require boiling before adding to a dish, and some only need to be soaked in cold water.<\/p>\n

A quote from Beard: “We’re Americans, with a whole melting pot of cultures behind us, and we don’t have to do things the classic Italian way. We can do as we please.” And: “this is not an Italian cookbook”.<\/p>\n

The first chapter is “Observations”. Beard discusses commercial dried pastas, store-bought fresh pasta, equipment for making and saucing pasta, how to cook pasta, choosing portions, important ingredients (tomatoes, olive oil, cheese), and what to drink with pasta. I like the way he does not judge between store-bought or homemade pasta, and he does not judge between pasta-making methods such as hand made, manual machines, or electric pasta-extruding machines. I like to use my manual pasta maker for simple flat noodles and spaghetti and for filled pastas like ravioli. I own an electric Simac pasta machine that both kneads and extrudes the dough. I don’t use it a lot anymore, but it is great for making fresh macaroni.<\/p>\n

Also in the “Observations” chapter is a section on flour. Me and flour have a long relationship and I pay close attention to this section. Beard writes that the recipes in this book were all prepared with all-purpose flour. But he states that the best flour for pasta is durum (hard-wheat) flour. Durum flour has more gluten in it (gluten is the sticky stuff), but was hard to find in the US when he wrote the book in 1983. All-purpose flour is a blend of hard and soft wheats. Semolina is made from durum wheat, but in the US, it is sold as a coarsely ground product, and does not make a good, pasty dough. I do use semolina when I make my own pasta dough, but I always mix it with all-purpose flour, in a ratio of about 1 part semolina to 3 parts all-purpose flour.<\/p>\n

While it is still hard to find durum wheat and other specialty flours in my local stores, I discovered King Arthur Flour online<\/a> a couple decades ago. Today I can order durum flour, artisan bread flour, french-style flour, high gluten flour, and a pasta flour blend from King Arthur Flour.<\/p>\n

The next chapter is “Making Pasta”. This chapter describes how to roll, cook, and dry homemade pasta. (I talked a lot about how I make pasta in this post: The New Pasta Cookbook<\/a> \u00a0\u2013 please refer to that post to learn about my method.) My age-old pasta dough recipe is 1 1\/2 cups all-purpose flour, 1\/2 cup semolina flour, 1\/2 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 2 eggs, and 2-4 tablespoons water. Beard’s recipe is similar, but leaves out the semolina flour and the olive oil. He gives directions for making the dough by hand, as well as using a food processor or a mixer.<\/p>\n

The rest of the chapters include recipes for different pasta dishes: Pastas in Broth, Mainly Vegetable, Fish and Seafood, Meats, Eggs and Cheese, Stuffed Pastas, Cold Pasta, Small Saucings, and Desserts. The only recipe I marked in this book is “Chilied Short Ribs over Corn Macaroni”. I almost made “Italian Sausage Salad” for this blog and will definitely make it some hot summer night (oddly enough, we are having a very cool August in Colorado). In the Desserts chapter, I discover a recipe for “Noodle Pudding”, with broad noodles, eggs, sugar, spices, apples, raisins, and apricots. This “famous Jewish specialty” really sounds like the elusive kuchen recipe that a college friend made for us all those years ago!<\/p>\n

To sum up: this book is a great source for pasta recipes. It’s a keeper!<\/p>\n

<\/a>Now, what to make for this blog? Beard inspires me to be creative and trust my own judgement, to explore, to substitute ingredients, to use what is on hand in my household. So that is what I am going to do for this blog post.<\/p>\n

First I’ll make my own pasta. I haven’t made pasta from scratch for a long time, maybe just\u00a0 couple times since my December 2012 post on The New Pasta Cookbook<\/em><\/a>. In that post, I show and discuss my manual pasta machine. Briefly, it rolls the dough into thin sheets, and then it cuts those sheets into flat noodles or spaghetti.<\/p>\n

I have a bag of “Perfect Pasta flour blend” in my pantry. It is:<\/p>\n

“a blend of golden semolina, durum flour, and King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour” (ordered online from King Arthur Flour<\/a>)<\/p>\n

Yes! It has the durum flour touted by James Beard. The problem is, the package should have been used by 2015 (and it’s 2017). It is still sealed, so I open the package and carefully look for bugs. None. I give it a big sniff: does it smell a little stale? Maybe, but I think it’s okay. The recipe on the package back is:<\/p>\n